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- Articles by Jim Porfilio
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Fishin'
Hot
The Ultimate Edge
Fishin' Hot
(Top)
by Jim
Porfilio
Dressing for the hot, sunny weather is the first step.
Wear very light colors and a good sun hat that protects
behind your head and neck. Don't forget your ears. Sun
block sunscreen is a must. Apply it one half hour before
heading out.
Your forehead is covered
with sweat. It's 95 degrees. There are no fish in your
fish basket. How come?
Dog days? Not only were
the dogs uncomfortable, but so were the fish. They just
stopped biting and eating.
Wrong! The fish do not
stop eating in hot weather. In fact, they eat more in
hot weather because they are more active. They are cold
blooded creatures; so when the water warms up, their
whole system warms and they move faster. They need more
energy and food as they become more active.
Well, where is the
problem? Why aren't we catching fish? The simple answer
is that fish have moved to new locations and different
structures.
The 90 degree days have
warmed the surface water. And, without getting into all
the technical terms like thermocline and stratification,
there is an area of water that is more comfortable to a
fish during those really hot days. This is mostly the
area of water sandwiched between the very cold water at
the bottom of the lake or pond and the warmer water at
the top of the body of water. The trick is to find the
fish's preferred comfort zone. Now, let's go hunting!
We may have to alter our
fishing techniques to compensate for increased water
temperatures.
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Try fishing early
morning, dusk, or at night. The fish have followed
the bait minnows to the shore area. They will stay
there until the hot sun comes up rewarming that
shallow water. Then they move to the deep cooler
water making them harder for us to locate. I know
some people that will only fish bass at night. They
come in after the sun rises. They have adjusted
their personal clocks to the Dog Days.
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Look for new
structure. Locate weed lines in deeper water or at
the temperature your fish prefer. Don't overlook
lily pads in shallow water. Even though the water is
shallow, these large pads protect the fish from the
excessive warm water. They are able to hide in the
shade. It's kind of like you and I looking for a
shade tree.
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We also may have to
alter our baits. In the evening, switch to surface
black plugs or imitation mice. The dark color
reflects better to the fish. Cast, let sit, and then
start “walkin the dog” by twitching the lure to make
it go from side to side. Repeat. This technique
works in shallow or deep water, around cover or over
submerged structure.
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Deep running spoons
work for those big guys. Don't overlook ocean slab
spoons. They are similar to the heaviest weight
spoon you can find in the North. Cast it, let it
sink to the bottom; and instead of a steady
retrieve, jig it as you would a lead head minnow
combination. Let it fall all the way back to the
bottom, and jig it back up 5 or 10 feet. Try a
minnow attached to the treble hook.
Enjoy nature! Keep it
cool! Enjoy Fishin'!
The
Ultimate Edge
(Top)
by Jim Porfilio
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A dull tool is a
dangerous tool daddy used to tell me. And, he was right.
Most times that I have cut myself while cleaning fish or
just plain using a knife, was because the knife had lost
its edge. I forced it.
With today's advanced sharpening devices, honing your
fishing, filet, or pocket knife can actually be fun. It
is no longer a tedious job. Some of the new sharpening
implements on the market are a combination of natural
materials and synthetics. The new blade metals are even
more interesting
and durable — they hold an edge for a few years and then
can be discarded.
My favorite sharpening device is one that my son gave to
me for Christmas about fifteen years ago. It came in a
wooden box with the name Hoffritz on it. When you take
the cover off, the tool sits in the lower half of the
box. It’s a manufactured plastic form 6” x 2”. As you
look at the top, you see a thin
sheet of metal with hundreds of eighth inch holes. The
next layer is a combination of man-made materials plus
industrial diamond dust. But, any good sharpening stone
will give you almost the same results.
Begin by wetting the top layer and proceed to use the
basic sharpening technique of stroking or pushing your
blade away from yourself. Think of cutting a slice off
of the stone. This technique is used for a knife that is
badly in need of sharpening. The blade should be held at
about a 10 -15° angle. Make two or three of these cuts. Then flip the blade over and do the same thing coming
toward yourself. Caution Here: These strokes can be
dangerous.
As a final, repeat the direction of honing, but this
time instead of using straight cuts, use light circular
motions with very little pressure. Now rinse the
sharpening apparatus. We next come to the part of
sharpening that separates the super sharp blade from the
sharp blade.
If you take your thumb and slide it up the side of the
knife blade toward the cutting edge, you'll feel a very,
very minuet burr on one of the two sides. This burr is
most often not visible. The reason it is there is
because when you made that final stroke on either the
right or left side of the blade, you were pushing the
metal over to the other side of the blade. If you want a
better explanation of this, get a very strong magnifying
glass and look at the blade under a very bright light. You can then see this burr or turned over edge.
In most cases, the average person just leaves that edge
the way it is. But, for the real pro, this is when the
steel or strop comes into play. The steel, the rat tail
file looking item, is used. It has miniature teeth or
grooves on it. You gently bring the blade back toward
yourself using alternate sides of the blade. This
procedure will do two things. • If it is done gently enough, that burr will be
removed. • If done often, those minuet grooves or hatchings
will keep your blade sharp for a long time.
As a very final, for the person that wants that razor
edge, strop that knife blade. Remember those pictures
from the 1920’s showing a barber running the cutting
edges of the razor across a wide belt like leather
strap? This technique removes the fine burr from knife
blades also. The key is to stroke away from the edge of the blade. In fact, some go from
stone to strop skipping the steel step. They say that
the strop gives a smoother finish than the steel — the
coup de grâce.
A strop is easily made. I made mine by cutting a 10”
long section from a 1.5” wide belt. That was glued to a
1.5 x 3 x 15” piece of piece of wood. Imagine a paint
stirrer. I then formed a handle. Unbelievably, after 20
years, it still gives that final touch
Now when you filet that fish, be super careful. You
won't have to force your razor sharp blade; it will cut
almost on its own.
Good filleting and good eating.
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